RESUMO

Clinical data published in recent years have demonstrated positive effects of collagen hydrolysate (CH) on skin aging clinical signs. CH use as food supplement has a long history; however, few studies have addressed the underlying purpose of CH on the cellular and molecular biology of skin cells that could elucidate clinical improvement findings. Wide diversity of characteristics has been reported for dermal fibroblasts derived from different body sites and it is unknown whether collagen peptides could modulate differently cells from chronological aged and photoaged skin areas. This study investigated the influence of CH on the extracellular matrix metabolism and proliferation of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) derived from chronological aged (sun-protected) and photoaged (sun-exposed) body sites. CH treatment did not affect cellular proliferation of either cell cultures, but notably modulated cell metabolism in monolayer model, increasing the content of dermal matrix precursor and main protein, procollagen I and collagen I, respectively. These effects were confirmed in the human dermal equivalent model. The increase in collagen content in the cultures was attributed to stimulation of biosynthesis and decreased collagen I metabolism through inhibition of metalloproteinase activity (MMP) 1 and 2. Modulation of CH in dermal metabolism did not differ between cells derived from sun-protected and sun-exposed areas, although lower concentrations of CH seemed to be enough to stimulate sun-exposed-derived HDFs, suggesting more pronounced effect in these cells. This study contributes to understanding the biological effects of CH on skin cells and viability of its use as a functional ingredient in food supplements.

Assuntos

RESUMO

BACKGROUND: Brittle nail syndrome is a common problem among women and refers to nails that exhibit surface roughness, raggedness, and peeling. AIM: The goal of this study was to investigate whether daily oral supplementation with collagen peptides alleviates the symptoms of brittle nails and improves nail growth rate. METHODS: In this open-label, single-center trial, 25 participants took 2.5 g of specific bioactive collagen peptides (BCP, VERISOL® ) once daily for 24 weeks followed by a 4-week off-therapy period. Nail growth rate and the frequency of cracked and/or chipped nails as well as an evaluation of symptoms and global clinical improvement score of brittle nails were assessed by a physician during treatment and 4 weeks after discontinuation. RESULTS: Bioactive collagen peptides treatment promoted an increase of 12% nail growth rate and a decrease of 42% in the frequency of broken nails. Additionally, 64% of participants achieved a global clinical improvement in brittle nails, and 88% of participants experienced an improvement 4 weeks post-treatment. The majority of participants (80%) agreed that the use of BCP improved their nails' appearance, and were completely satisfied with the performance of the treatment. CONCLUSIONS: This study demonstrated that the daily ingestion of BCP increased nail growth and improved brittle nails in conjunction with a notable decrease in the frequency of broken nails.

Assuntos

RESUMO

Clay mineral facial masks are used to treat some dermatological diseases, just for cleansing or reduce the amount of oil secreted by sebaceous glands. There are several types of clays, which vary in mineralogical and chemical composition, color and origin. However, the literature lacks studies involving clay facial masks, in particular regarding their influence on skin´s biomechanical properties. Thus, this work aimed to characterize colored clays and evaluate its influence on skin frmness and elasticity by a short-term clinical study. Different clays (named in this study magnesium aluminum silicate - MAS, white, pink and green) were chemically characterized, and facial mask formulations were prepared. The short-term clinical study was performed through the application of formulations on the skin. The skin frmness and elasticity were assessed before treatment and after mask removal. The statistical analysis showed no signifcant influence of time or formulations in those parameters, although volunteers reported the sensation of mechanical tension after the removal of the clay facial masks. Thus, the composition of the different clays did not affect the skin viscoelasticity behavior in the short-term clinical study, and a long-term use of this type of formulation must be indicated to observe all the expected benefts.(AU)

Máscaras faciais argilosas são utilizadas para tratar algumas doenças dermatológicas, apenas para a limpeza ou reduzir a quantidade de óleo secretado pelas glândulas sebáceas. Existem vários tipos de argilas, que variam em composição mineral, química, cor e origem. No entanto, a literatura carece de estudos envolvendo máscaras faciais argilosas, em particular em relação a sua influência nas propriedades biomecânicas da pele. Assim, este trabalho teve como objetivo caracterizar argilas coloridas e avaliar sua influência sobre a frmeza e elasticidade da pele por meio de um estudo clínico de curto prazo. Diferentes argilas (chamadas neste estudo de silicato de alumínio e magnésio - MAS, branca, rosa e verde) foram caracterizadas quimicamente, e formulações de máscaras faciais foram preparadas. O estudo clínico de curto prazo foi realizado por meio da aplicação das formulações na pele. A frmeza e elasticidade da pele foram avaliadas antes do tratamento e após a remoção da máscara. A análise estatística mostrou nenhuma influência signifcativa do tempo ou das formulações nesses parâmetros, embora os voluntários tenham reportado sensação de tensão mecânica, após a remoção das máscaras faciais argilosas. Assim, a composição das diferentes argilas não afetou o comportamento visco-elástico da pele no estudo clínico de curto prazo, e uma utilização de longa duração poderia ser indicada com a fnalidade de se observar todos os benefícios esperados.(AU)

Assuntos

RESUMO

The effect of daily ingestion of collagen hydrolysate (CH) on skin extracellular matrix proteins was investigated. Four-week-old male Wistar rats were fed a modified AIN-93 diet containing 12% casein as the reference group or CH as the treatment group. A control group was established in which animals were fed a non-protein-modified AIN-93 diet. The diets were administered continuously for 4 weeks when six fresh skin samples from each group were assembled and subjected to extraction of protein. Type I and IV collagens were studied by immunoblot, and activities of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) 2 and 9 were assessed by zymography. The relative amount of type I and IV collagens was significantly (P < .05) increased after CH intake compared with the reference diet group (casein). Moreover, CH uptake significantly decreased both proenzyme and active forms of MMP2 compared with casein and control groups (P < .05). In contrast, CH ingestion did not influence on MMP9 activity. These results suggest that CH may reduce aging-related changes of the extracellular matrix by stimulating anabolic processes in skin tissue.

Assuntos

RESUMO

Dietary supplements (vitamins, polyphenols, micronutrients and proteins) have demonstrated beneficial effects on skin health. The classical route of administration of active compounds is by topical application and manufactures have substantial experience of formulating ingredients in this field. However, the use of functional foods or nutraceuticals for improving skin condition is increasing. The preclinical efficacy assays and bioavailability trials provide a basis from which to establish appropriate collagen hydrolysate (CH) intakes that might impact skin health outcomes. This commentary deals essentially with the general aspects of CH, bioavailability and findings of preclinical studies concerning the effects of CH intake on skin. To comprehensively study the different benefits of CH on skin, controlled clinical trials are needed in addition to the previous pre-clinical and bioavailability assays. Gaps in knowledge are identified and suggestions are made for future research.

Assuntos

RESUMO

A rutina é empregada como antioxidante e na prevenção da fragilidade capilar. Estudos de penetração in vitro através da pele humana seria a situação ideal, entretanto, há dificuldades de sua obtenção e manutenção de sua viabilidade. Entre os demais modelos de membrana, a muda de pele de cobra se apresenta como estrato córneo puro, fornecendo barreira similar ao humano e é obtida sem a morte do animal. Os objetivos desta pesquisa foram desenvolver e avaliar a estabilidade de uma emulsão cosmética contendo rutina e, como promotor de penetração cutânea, o propilenoglicol; e avaliar a penetração e a retenção cutânea in vitro da referida substância ativa da formulação, empregando um modelo de biomembrana alternativo. A emulsão foi desenvolvida com rutina e propilenoglicol, ambos a 5,0 por cento p/p. Quantificou-se a rutina das emulsões por espectrofotometria a 361,0 nm, método previamente validado. A penetração e retenção cutânea in vitro foram realizadas em células de difusão vertical com muda de pele de cobra de Crotalus durissus, como modelo de biomembrana alternativo, e água destilada e álcool etílico absoluto 99,5 por cento (1:1), como fluido receptor. O experimento foi conduzido em um período de seis horas, a 37,0 ± 0,5 ºC e agitação constante de 300 rpm. Empregou-se o método espectrofotométrico validado a 410,0 nm para a quantificação da rutina após penetração e retenção cutânea. A emulsão não promoveu a penetração cutânea da rutina através da muda de pele de C. durissus, retendo 0,931 ± 0,0391 mg de rutina/mg de muda de pele de cobra. Nas condições de armazenamento a 25,0 ± 2,0 ºC; 5,0 ± 0,5 ºC e 45,0 ± 0,5 ºC, a emulsão apresentou-se quimicamente estável durante 30 dias. De acordo com os resultados, a emulsão não favoreceu a penetração cutânea da rutina, mas apenas sua retenção no estrato córneo de C. durissus, condição considerada estável no período de 30 dias.

Rutin is employed as antioxidant and to prevent the capillary fragility and, when incorporated in cosmetic emulsions, it must target the action site. In vitro cutaneous penetration studies through human skin is the ideal situation, however, there are difficulties to obtain and to maintain this tissue viability. Among the membrane models, shed snake skin presents itself as pure stratum corneum, providing barrier function similar to human and it is obtained without the animal sacrifice. The objectives of this research were the development and stability evaluation of a cosmetic emulsion containing rutin and propylene glycol (penetration enhancer) and the evaluation of rutin in vitro cutaneous penetration and retention from the emulsion, employing an alternative model biomembrane. Emulsion was developed with rutin and propylene glycol, both at 5.0 percent w/w. Active substance presented on the formulation was quantified by a validated spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm. Rutin cutaneous penetration and retention was performed in vertical diffusion cells with shed snake skin of Crotalus durissus, as alternative model biomembrane, and distilled water and ethanol 99.5 percent (1:1), as receptor fluid. The experiment was conducted for six hours, at 37.0 ± 0.5 ºC with constant stirring of 300 rpm. Spectrophotometry at 410.0 nm, previously validated, determined the active substance after cutaneous penetration/retention. Emulsion did not promote rutin cutaneous penetration through C. durissus skin, retaining 0.931 ± 0.0391 mg rutin/mg shed snake skin. The referred formulation was chemically stable for 30 days after stored at 25.0 ± 2.0 ºC, 5.0 ± 0.5 ºC and 45.0 ± 0.5 ºC. In conclusion, it has not been verified the active cutaneous penetration through the model biomembrane, but only its retention on the Crotalus durissus stratum corneum, condition considered stable for 30 days.

Assuntos

RESUMO

Development of topical dosage forms requires physical, physicochemical and chemical assays that provide, as soon as possible, the formulation with the best stability profiles. This study evaluated the stability of O/W fluid emulsions, by total flavonoids determination, expressed in rutin, containing the standardized extract of Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (and) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham. Samples were evaluated for 90 days stored at 24.0 ± 2.0 ºC, 5.0 ± 0.5 ºC and 40.0 ± 0.5 ºC, following a protocol for the assessment of accelerated chemical stability assay, also known as Normal Stability Test. A sensitive UV-spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm was previously validated for the determination of the active substance. By Normal Stability Test, the O/W fluid emulsions presented acceptable chemical stability, for at least 90 days, when the samples were stored at 24.0 ± 2.0 ºC and 5.0 ± 0.5 ºC. The storage condition at 40.0 ± 0.5 ºC has accelerated the degradation process of the total flavonoids, consequently, those O/W emulsions containing this kind of natural active substance or a similar preparation must not be stored at elevated temperatures.

O desenvolvimento de formas farmacêuticas tópicas necessita ensaios físicos, físico-químicos e químicos que selecionem rapidamente a formulação de melhor desempenho de estabilidade. Este estudo avaliou a estabilidade de emulsões O/A fluidas, por meio da determinação de flavonóides totais, expressos em rutina, contendo o extrato padronizado de Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (e) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham. As amostras foram armazenadas a 24,0 ± 2,0 ºC; 5,0 ± 0,5 ºC e 40,0 ± 0,5 ºC durante 90 dias e foram avaliadas segundo o protocolo para a determinação da estabilidade acelerada, conhecida como Teste de Estabilidade Normal. A quantificação da substância ativa foi determinada por espectrofotometria na região do ultravioleta a 361,0 nm, previamente validado. Após os ensaios de estabilidade, as emulsões O/A fluidas apresentaram estabilidade adequada, pelo menos, no período de 90 dias, quando armazenadas a 24,0 ± 2,0 ºC e 5,0 ± 0,5 ºC. A condição de armazenamento a 40,0 ± 0,5 ºC acelerou a cinética de degradação dos flavonóides totais, expressos em rutina, portanto, preparações possuindo esta categoria de substância ativa natural ou formulações similares não devem ser armazenadas em temperaturas elevadas.

Assuntos

RESUMO

Clay facial masks--formulations that contain a high percentage of solids dispersed in a liquid vehicle--have become of special interest due to specific properties presented by clays, such as particle size, cooling index, high adsorption capacity, and plasticity. Although most of the physicochemical properties of clay dispersions have been studied, specific aspects concerning the physicochemical stability of clay mask products remain unclear. This work aimed at investigating the accelerated physicochemical stability of clay mask formulations stored at different temperatures. Formulations were subjected to centrifuge testing and to thermal treatment for 15 days, during which temperature was varied from -5.0 degrees to 45.0 degrees C. The apparent viscosity and visual aspect (homogeneity) of all formulations were affected by temperature variation, whereas color, odor, and pH value remained unaltered. These results, besides the estimation of physicochemical stability under aging, can be useful in determining the best storage conditions for clay-based formulations.

Assuntos

RESUMO

A new derivative spectrophotometric (DS) method was proposed and validated for quantification of total flavonoids from in O/W emulsion with polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 containing Catuaba (Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss) (and) Marapuama (Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham) extract. DS method was optimized to perform the assay in most favorable conditions. Linearity, specificity and selectivity, recovery (Rc, %), precision (R.S.D., %), accuracy (E, %), detection (LOD, microg ml(-1)) and quantification limits (LOQ, microg ml(-1)) were established for method validation. First-derivative at 388.0 nm (zero-to-peak; amplitude= +/- 0.12; wavelength range= 300.0-450.0 nm and Deltalambda = 4 nm) offered linearity for rutin concentrations ranging from 10.0 to 60.0 microg ml(-1) in ethanol 99.5%. Second-derivative provided to be unsuitable for interval evaluation obtaining unacceptable accuracy. Analytical method was validated for first-derivative, according to the experimental results: correlation coefficient (r = 0.9999); specificity to total flavonoids quantification, expressed in rutin, at wavelength 388.0 nm and selectivity with elimination of interference from matrix; Rc = 108.78%; intra- and inter-run precision (1.30-3.65% and 3.48-4.68%), and intra- and inter-run accuracy (100.00-112.19% and 101.25-118.44%); LOD = 0.62 microg ml(-1) and LOQ = 1.86 microg ml(-1).

Assuntos