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The Colombian Chocó is known for its rich biodiversity and to harbor plant species that are under-explored, including the genus Sloanea. This study aimed to analyze the chemical composition of derivatized ethanolic extracts from S. chocoana and S. pittieriana using BSTFA and TMCS through GC-MS, and to assess cell viability of immortalized human non-tumorigenic keratinocytes (HaCaT) and periodontal ligament fibroblast cells using crude extracts through MTS assay. Antioxidant and photoprotective properties were determined using DPPH assay and spectrophotometry. Antifungal activity of extracts against Candida species was developed following the CLSI standard M27, 4th ed. The sun protective factor (SPF) and UVA/UVB ratio values were calculated using the Mansur equation and the Boots star rating system. The critical wavelength (λc) was determined by calculating the integrated optical density curve's area. The transmission of erythema and pigmentation was calculated through equations that use constants to calculate the flux of erythema and pigmentation. The GC-MS analysis identified 37 compounds for S. chocoana and 38 for S. pittieriana, including alkaloids, triterpenoids, and polyphenolics, among others. Both extracts exhibited proliferative effects on periodontal ligament fibroblasts, did not affect the viability of HaCaT cells, and showed excellent antioxidant activities (46.1% and 43.7%). Relevant antifungal activity was observed with S. pittieriana extract against Candida albicans (GM-MIC: 4 µg/mL), followed by C. auris and C. glabrata (GM-MIC: 32 µg/mL), while S. chocoana extract was active against C. albicans and C. glabrata (GM-MIC: 16 and 32 µg/mL, respectively). High SPF values (31.0 and 30.0), λc (393.98 and 337.81 nm), UVA/UVB ratio (1.5 and 1.2), and low percentage of transmission of erythema and pigmentation were determined for S. chocoana and S. pittieriana, respectively. Results showed that species of Sloanea constitute a promising alternative as ingredients for developing skincare products, and exhaustive studies are required for their sustainable uses.

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We carried out theoretical and experimental analyses of ZnO and ZnS nanoparticles as smart semiconductor materials in light-activated antimicrobial coating for application in masks. We used low-cost hydrothermally processable precursors to direct the growth of the coatings on cotton fabric. Both ZnO and ZnS coatings had high reactivities as disinfection agents in photocatalysis reactions for the degradation of a methylene blue dye solution. Also, these coatings showed excellent UV protection properties. For understanding at the molecular level, the broad-spectrum biological activities of the ZnO and ZnS coatings against Fusarium Oxysporum fungi, Escherichia coli bacteria, and severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus-2 (SARS-CoV-2) virus and their variants, were investigated computationally. Hexagonal Zn6O6 and Zn6S6 clusters were used as models for the simulations through excited- and ground-state calculations. The theoretical findings show that changes in the local chemical environment in these excited systems have a profound impact on their physical and chemical properties and thus, can provide a better understanding to engineer new functional materials in light-activated antimicrobial coatings for the mitigation of SARS-CoV-2 infection.

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Human skin works as a barrier against the adverse effects of environmental agents, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Exposure to UVR is associated with a variety of harmful effects on the skin, and it is one of the most common health concerns. Solar UVR constitutes the major etiological factor in the development of cutaneous malignancy. However, more than 90% of skin cancer cases could be avoided with appropriate preventive measures such as regular sunscreen use. Plants, constantly irradiated by sunlight, are able to synthesize specialized molecules to fight against UVR damage. Phenolic compounds, alkaloids and carotenoids constitute the major plant secondary metabolism compounds with relevant UVR protection activities. Hence, plants are an important source of molecules used to avoid UVR damage, reduce photoaging and prevent skin cancers and related illnesses. Due to its significance, we reviewed the main plant secondary metabolites related to UVR protection and its reported mechanisms. In addition, we summarized the research in Mexican plants related to UV protection. We presented the most studied Mexican plants and the photoprotective molecules found in them. Additionally, we analyzed the studies conducted to elucidate the mechanism of photoprotection of those molecules and their potential use as ingredients in sunscreen formulas.

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Excessive UV solar radiation exposure causes human health risks; therefore, the study of multifunctional filters is important to skin UV protective ability and also to other beneficial activities to the human organism, such as reduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) responsible for cellular damages. Potential multifunctional filters were obtained by intercalating of ferulate anions into layered simple metal hydroxides (LSH) through anion exchange and precipitation at constant pH methods. Ultrasound treatment was used in order to investigate the structural changes in LSH-ferulate materials. Structural and spectroscopic analyses show the formation of layered materials composed by a mixture of LSH intercalated with ferulate anions, where carboxylate groups of ferulate species interact with LSH layers. UV-VIS absorption spectra and in vitro SPF measurements indicate that LSH-ferulate systems have UV shielding capacity, mainly UVB protection. The results of reactive species assays show the ability of layered compounds in capture DPPH•, ABTS•+, ROO•, and HOCl/OCl- reactive species. LSH-ferulate materials exhibit antioxidant activity and singular optical properties that enable their use as multifunctional filters.

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OBJECTIVE: Differences in skin physiology and lifestyle among people can influence the skin damage caused by solar radiation. Photoprotection habits play an important role to prevent skin photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the skin changes resulting from solar exposure in young men by skin imaging techniques. METHODS: Twenty-three male, aged 18-28 years, with and without photoprotection habits participated in the study. Instrumental measurements in terms of dermis thickness and echogenicity (20 mHz ultrasound - DermaScanC® ), morphological and structural skin characterization (Reflectance Confocal Microscopy - VivaScope® 1500) and high-resolution imaging (Visioface® ) were performed in the malar region of the face. RESULTS: Pigmentation disorders, telangiectasia, wrinkles and lower dermis echogenicity were observed in the skin of subjects without photoprotection habits. Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images showed an irregular honeycomb pattern (35%), polycyclic papillae (40%) and coarse collagen fibres (35%), which are related to photoaging. CONCLUSION: Sun exposure without photoprotection results in a loss of dermal echogenicity and changes in the epidermis structure and collagen fibres regardless of chronological age. Thus, the study adds data for a discussion about correct photoprotection habits among young people and can help to increase the use of sunscreens for male public.

OBJECTIFS: Les différences de physiologie cutanée et de mode de vie peuvent influer sur les lésions cutanées causées par le rayonnement solaire. Les habitudes de photoprotection jouent un rôle important dans la prévention du photovieillissement cutané. Dans ce contexte, l'objectif de l'étude était d'évaluer les changements cutanés résultants de l'exposition au soleil chez les jeunes hommes à l'aide de techniques d'imagerie cutanée. MÉTHODES: L'étude a inclus 23 hommes, âgés de 18 à 28 ans, avec et sans habitudes de photoprotection. Des mesures instrumentales d'épaisseur et d'échogénicité du derme (échographie 20 mHz - DermaScanC®), de caractérisation morphologique et structurale de la peau (Reflectance Confocal Microscopy - VivaScope® 1500) et des images haute résolution (Visioface®) ont été réalisées dans la région malaire du visage. RÉSULTATS: Des troubles de la pigmentation, des télangiectasies, des rides et une moindre échogénicité du derme ont été observés sur la peau d'individus sans habitudes de photoprotection. Les images de microscopie confocale à réflectance ont montré un motif en nid d'abeille irrégulier (35%), des papilles polycycliques (40%) et des fibres de collagène épaisses (35%), qui sont liés au photovieillissement. CONCLUSION: L'exposition au soleil sans photoprotection entraîne une perte d'échogénicité cutanée et des modifications de la structure de l'épiderme et des fibres de collagène, quel que soit l'âge chronologique. Enfin, l'étude agrège les données pour une discussion sur les bonnes habitudes de photoprotection chez les jeunes et peut aider à augmenter l'utilisation des écrans solaires par le public masculin.

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Abstract The pulp oil of Caryocar brasiliense Camb., better known as pequi, is used in the typical cuisine of the Brazilian Cerrado region. It is also used in folk medicine to combat several types of disease of the respiratory system and skin. However, since its exploration is purely extractive, the exhaustion of this plant is already foreseen. Thus, in order to establish the sustainable use of pequi and contribute to its maintenance, this study aimed to develop a phytocosmetic with antioxidant and photoprotective properties using the oil of this fruit. Initially, the cytotoxicity of the oil was evaluated in order to establish the safety of its use and its fatty acid composition. Then, from the cream enriched with the oil, it was evaluated the antioxidant and photoprotector potentials, quantified the total phenolic content and examined the quality of the formulation. Pequi oil showed high percentages of palmitic (52.11%) and oleic (44.57%) fatty acids and absence of cytotoxicity. The analysis of the cream revealed 168.8 mg of total phenols in gallic acid equivalent per 100 g of oil. The evaluation of antioxidant activity showed an EC50 of 2.921 mg/mL and a capacity of inhibiting the lipoperoxidation process higher than 100%. The obtained sun protection factor was 11.40 at the concentration of 6.25 mg/mL. The quality tests revealed small disturbances in the cream stability that can be solved by further research and improvement of the formulation. The pequi oil can be converted into a phytocosmetic of great commercial value.

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OBJECTIVES: In view of the lack of studies about the morphological and structural changes caused by solar radiation in young people, the aim of the present study was to evaluate the photoageing-related changes in the skin of different age groups by biophysical and imaging techniques. METHODS: Forty-four healthy female subjects were divided into two age groups: Group 1 (G1): 18-35 years old and Group 2 (G2): 40-60 years old. The skin of malar region of the face was evaluated in terms of mechanical properties, disorder in the pigmentation pattern, morphological and structural changes using the Cutometer® , Colorimeter® , Visioface® and Dermascan C® devices and reflectance confocal microscopy (Vivascope® ). RESULTS: The results showed that the main changes in the skin of G1 were related to the pigmentation pattern, the papilla format and depletion of thin collagen fibres. These alterations were also observed in the skin of G2, but with more pronounced effects. CONCLUSION: The knowledge about the skin changes caused by photoageing obtained in this study is very important for the development of dermocosmetic products for more effective treatments particularly focused on this type of skin. Finally, objective characterization of photoageing showed the importance of photoprotective habits since the first years of life in order to retard the appearance of skin changes caused by solar radiation.

OBJECTIFS: Compte tenu du manque d'études sur les modifications structurelles et morphologiques causées par le rayonnement solaire chez les jeunes gens, le but de la présente étude était d'évaluer les changements liés au photovieillissement de la peau de différents groupes d'âges grâce des techniques de biophysique et d'imagerie. MÉTHODES: Quarante-quatre sujets féminins en bonne santé ont été divisés en deux groupes d'âges : Groupe 1 (G1) : 18-35 ans et Groupe 2 (G2) : 40-60 ans. La peau des régions malaires du visage a été évaluée en termes de propriétés mécaniques, troubles du schéma de pigmentation, et changements morphologiques et structurels à l'aide des dispositifs Cutometer®, Colorimeter®, Visioface® et Dermascan C® et de la microscopie confocale par réflectance (Vivascope®). RÉSULTATS: Les résultats ont montré que les principaux changements au niveau de la peau du G1 étaient liés au schéma de pigmentation, au format papillaire et à la déplétion de fines fibres de collagène. Ces altérations ont également été observées au niveau de la peau du G2, mais avec des effets plus prononcés. CONCLUSION: Les connaissances sur les modifications cutanées causées par le photovieillissement acquises grâce à cette étude sont très importantes pour le développement de produits dermo-cosmétiques pour des traitements plus efficaces axés plus particulièrement sur ce type de peau. Et enfin, la caractérisation objective du photovieillissement a montré l'importance des habitudes photoprotectrices depuis les premières années de vie afin de retarder l'apparition de modifications cutanées causées par le rayonnement solaire.

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BACKGROUND: The intrinsic ageing and photoaged skin present biomechanical and morphological differences, which are reflected in the appearance of roughness, superficial and deep wrinkles, atrophy, reduced elasticity, hypo- and hyperpigmentation and actinic keratosis. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate and compare the characteristics of the flexor (with a predominance of intrinsic ageing) and extensor (chronically exposed to sunlight and other environmental factors, with a predominance of photoageing) skin surfaces of the forearms. METHODS: Interventional, prospective, diagnostic study, including 23 females, aged over 60 years. The extensor and flexor faces of forearms were compared in relation to clinical parameters and non-invasive instrumental measurements, such as skin surface, elasticity, hydration as well as dermal thickness and echogenicity. RESULTS: Regarding the water content of the stratum corneum, the flexor face presented an average value higher than the extensor face. The average of measures obtained through images of high-frequency ultrasound demonstrated greater echogenicity of flexor face compared to the extensor face. The measurements of the skin surface showed significant differences between the faces. The roughness and scaliness were lower in the flexor face. Regarding the depth of wrinkles, there was no significant difference between the faces. The average of the measurements was slightly higher in the flexor face, which demonstrated that wrinkles are present in the intrinsic ageing and photoageing. The presence of elastosis and the reduction in elasticity in the clinical aspect of the photoaged face of forearms were according to the results of the non-invasive measurements. CONCLUSION: Meaningful differences in the biophysical characteristics of the extensor and flexor faces of the forearms were detected. Because the non-invasive instrumental measurements correlated with clinical findings, they may represent useful tools to assess efficacy and safety of skin ageing treatments in clinical research.

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OBJECTIVE: The correct choice of raw materials in the development of cosmetic formulations is essential for obtaining stable and pleasant skin care products. Therefore, rheological, texture and sensory analyses are important to understand the behaviour and stability of the formulations. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop cosmetic formulations containing or not (vehicle) UV filters and chicory root extract, to evaluate their stability as well as to characterize their physical and texture properties and correlate them with the sensory attributes. METHODS: Four formulations containing organic UV filters and chicory extract, each alone or in combination, were developed and evaluated for 180 days with a cone and plate rheometer, a texture analyzer and consumer's sensorial analysis. Thus, the data obtained were correlated to observe the different influences. RESULTS: The developed formulations remained stable after 180 days regarding macroscopic aspects, organoleptic characteristics and pH values. The addition of the UV filters alone and in combination with the active substance resulted in significant increases in rheology properties, viscosity and consistency. The formulation with the active ingredient showed significant decreases in the texture parameters after 180 days, mainly due to its polysaccharide inulin. All formulations obtained high scores in sensorial parameters. A strong correlation was mainly found between spreadability and work of shear, and between the texture parameters. CONCLUSION: The raw materials strongly influenced the physical, texture and sensorial parameters. Finally, the UV filters showed a greater influence on the results of the formulations than the chicory root extract. In conclusion, the association of the mentioned methods allows the correct choice of ingredients and their combinations.

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