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Abstract The objective of this study was to determine the influence of nonionic surfactants on the effectiveness of preservatives used in emulsions containing high surfactant content. Mixtures of different concentrations were prepared between polyethoxylated (40) hydrogenated castor oil (PHCO) and polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (PSO), with methylparaben, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and isobutylparaben (PMEPBI) blend, phenoxyethanol and benzoic acid (BP) blend, and phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol (PC) blend. Subsequently, the compatibility of the formulation ingredients and the effectiveness of the preservatives were evaluated by the challenge test. It was found that PHCO and PSO inactivated the antimicrobial action of methylparaben and PMEPBI. Paraben-free preservatives BP and PC had less influence on surfactants than systems containing parabens. When incorporated into microemulsions and nanoemulsions containing 40% and 20% surfactants, methylparaben and BP 0.2% and 0.5% were only effective against Aspergillus niger. The PMEPBI 0.2% was effective as a preservative in nanoemulsified formulations against A. niger, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus aureus. The results demonstrate that the efficacy of the preservative system in formulations containing nonionic surfactant excipients depends on the type of excipient, the components of the formulation, the preservative systems composition, the excipient to preservative ratio, and the availability in the formulation.

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Considering the importance of an adequate composition of the formulation in the development of stable, safe and effective cosmetic products, experimental design techniques are tools that can optimize the formulation development process. The objective of this study was to develop topical formulations using the Box-Behnken design with response surface methodology and evaluate its physical, sensory and moisturizing properties. The experimental design used in the first step allowed to identify and to quantify the influence of raw materials, as well as the interaction between them. In the second step, the analysis identified the influence of soy lecithin, the phytantriol and capric acid triglyceride and caprylic on the consistency index, stickiness and greasiness and skin hydration. Cetearyl alcohol, dicetyl phosphate and cetyl phosphate 10EO and acrylates/C10-30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer showed effects in rheological parameters. The addition of soy lecithin had significant effects in terms of consistency index, stickiness, oiliness and immediate moisturizing effects. Phytantriol showed effects on increasing consistency index and oiliness sensation. Thus, the experimental design was shown to be an effective tool for research and development of cosmetics, since it allowed the assessment of the individual and interaction effects of raw materials in the responses: rheological parameters, sensory and clinical efficacy.

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The purpose of this study was to evaluate the safety of Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract, followed by the development of an oil in water emulsion containing the K. brasiliensis leaves extract and evaluating its clinical moisturizing efficacy. The formulations containing sodium acrylates/ Beheneth-25 methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) lauryl glucoside and 0.5% of extract were prepared. The extract was considered as non-irritating through skin irritant tests. The stability testing was carried out in different conditions for 90 days. The skin hydration was measured by capacitance measurement and transepidermal water loss using biophysical techniques. The results indicate that the formulation containing 0.5% of extract increased the hydration of the stratum corneum up to 5 h after application on the forearm. The transepidermal water loss was reduced when compared to the untreated area and placebo area. Therefore, we can conclude that the increased skin hydration and protection of barrier function can be attributed to the K. brasiliensis extract. This research presents a new raw material from the Brazilian Caatinga biome and shows its possible application in the development of cosmetic products.

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The aim of the paper is to test stability and biophysical properties of hydrophilic and lipophilic emulsions with selected vegetable seed oils: Limnanthes alba, Prunus amygdalus dulcis, Cannabis sativa, Rosa rubiginosa and Hellianthus annuus. Biophysical properties of emulsions are investigated in vivo using non-invasive instrumental methods (corneometry, tewametry and pH) in a group of 12 healthy women volunteers. Their stability profiles (colour, phase separation and centrifugation) under various temperatures (9, 25, 37 and 57 °C) and storage time (24 hours, 2, 7, 14, 21 and 28 days) were monitored. The moisturising activities of the emulsions supplemented with various oils were comparable. The lipophilic emulsions showed a better ability to improve the condition of the skin barrier due to formation of a surface lipid film. The tested formulations regulated the pH of the skin towards neutral values. Lipophilic emulsions showed earlier phase separation and changes in colour. The greatest resistance to thermal stress during storage was observed for the emulsion bases. Emulsions containing oils, except for those with rosehip and hempseed oils, were stable up to the temperature of 37 °C. The studied emulsion systems are excellent vehicles of vegetable oils and exhibit relatively good stability, benefiting the natural properties of skin.

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ABSTRACT Fusidic acid is an antibiotic steroid indicated for the treatment of infections caused by the genus Staphylococcus, including methicillin resistant Staphylococcus aureus strains, and other Gram-positive bacteria. In the present study, a stability-indicating reversed-phase liquid chromatography (RP-LC) method was developed and validated for the determination of fusidic acid in dermatological cream as an alternative to existing methods. Analyses were performed using a C18 column and guard column at room temperature, eluting with an isocratic mobile phase of acetonitrile and water (72:28, v/v), adjusted to pH 3.5 with acetic acid, pumped at a flow rate of 1.0 mL min-1, detection at 210 nm and 20 µL of injection volume. The forced degradation study was conducted under acidic, alkaline, neutral, photolytic, and oxidative stress conditions. The method was validated according to ICH and FDA guidelines; it was linear, precise, accurate, selective, and robust over concentrations of 5-95 µg mL-1, with detection and quantification limits of 0.43 and 1.31 μg mL-1, respectively. Therefore, we conclude that this method is suitable for quantifying fusidic acid in pharmaceutical dermatological creams and determining its stability, representing a more economical and practical alternative for routine analysis in quality control.

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Diversos cosméticos têm sido produzidos para atender a crescente demanda de mercado. Para que estes produtos possuam boa aceitação são necessárias que os mesmos apresentem adequadas características físicoquímicas e sensoriais, bem como eficácia, segurança e qualidade. Esse trabalho visou o desenvolvimento e avaliação da estabilidade de formulações biocosméticas a partir da incorporação dos óleos essenciais da espécie Lippia gracilis Schum em formulações cosméticas para cabelo, por meio de estudos de pré-formulação e testes de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada. Foram realizados testes físico-químicos para avaliação dos parâmetros: pH, viscosidade aparente, características sensoriais, espuma e densidade. Durante os estudos de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada, foi observado que as temperaturas: Refrigerador (TG) (5,0 ± 0,5ºC) e Estufa (TE) (45,0 ± 0,5ºC) sofreram alterações de pH, viscosidade e das características sensoriais. Ao final do estudo, mantiveram as características iniciais, apenas as formulações mantidas em temperatura ambiente. Concluiu-se que a formulação de xampu não possui estabilidade quando exposta a temperaturas abaixo de 5ºC e acima de 45ºC. A formulação de condicionador, além de ser instável em temperaturas extremas, apresentou também alterações após 30 dias (T2) em temperatura ambiente (TA) (24,0 ± 2,0ºC).(AU)

Several cosmetics have been produced to meet the growing market demand. For these products have good acceptance is necessary that they show suitable physico-chemical and organoleptic characteristics, as well as efficacy, safety and quality. This research aimed at the development and evaluation of the stability of formulations biocosmetics from the incorporation of the essential oils of the species Lippia gracilis Schum in shampoo and conditioner through preliminary stability testing and accelerated. Physico-chemical tests for evaluation of the parameters were performed: pH, viscosity, sensory characteristics, lather and density. During the stability studies and preliminary accelerated, it was observed that the formulations subjected to extreme temperatures, such as: Refrigerator (TG) (5.0 ± 0.5 ° C) and hot air oven (TE) (45.0 ± 0.5 ° C), undergone changes in pH, viscosity and sensory characteristics. At the end of the study maintained the initial characteristics, only formulations maintained at room temperature. It was concluded that the shampoo formulation lacks stability when exposed to temperatures below 5 ° C and above 45 ° C. And the conditioner formulation in addition to being unstable in extreme temperatures, also showed changes after 30 days (T2) at room temperature (RT) (24.0 ± 2.0 ° C).(AU)

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Calendula is used widely in cosmetic formulations that present phenolic compounds in their chemical constitution. The objective of our research was to develop and evaluate the stability of topical formulations containing 5% hydro-ethanolic extract of calendula leaves, including spreadability, and in vitro photo-protective, and antioxidant capacity. To evaluate the stability, we used organoleptic characteristics, pH, and viscosity parameters. Antioxidant capacity was measured by the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) method, and the photo-protective capacity by SPF spectrophotometric measure. All formulations were stable. The calendula extract formulations in gel and cream showed no significant variations in pH, and the cream formulations presented lower viscosity variations than gel formulations. The spreadability of the gel formulations was superior to those in cream. The formulations also presented good antioxidant capacities and an FPS of around 1.75. In accordance with the results, the formulations can be used as antioxidants, but considering the low SPF obtained, calendula cannot be considered as a stand-alone sunscreen, yet may well be tested in future studies towards verifying enhancement of synthetic sunscreens.

A calêndula é amplamente utilizada em formulações cosméticas, apresentando compostos fenólicos em sua constituição química. Desta forma, o objetivo desta pesquisa foi desenvolver e avaliar a estabilidade de formulações tópicas contendo 5% de extrato hidroetanólico das folhas de calêndula, bem como a espalhabilidade, capacidade antioxidante e fotoprotetora in vitro nas mesmas. Para a avaliação da estabilidade, foram usados parâmetros como a verificação das características organolépticas, pH e viscosidade. A capacidade antioxidante foi verificada pelo método do DPPH (2,2-difenil,1- picril-hidrazila) e a capacidade fotoprotetora pela medida espectrofotométrica do FPS. Para as formulações testadas, observou-se que apresentaram uma boa estabilidade. As formulações de creme e gel com extrato de calêndula não apresentaram variações significativas nos valores de pH e o creme apresentou as menores variações de viscosidade em relação ao gel. A espalhabilidade das formulações de gel foi superior à do creme. As formulações também apresentaram uma boa capacidade antioxidante e um FPS em torno de 1.75. De acordo com os resultados, a formulação pode ser utilizada com ação antioxidante, porém com o FPS obtido, a calêndula não pode ser considerada um filtro solar isolado, mas poderá ser testada em estudos futuros para verificar a potencialização de filtros solares sintéticos.

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Com o intuito de promover proteção de amplo espectro, na maioria dos protetores solares estão associados pelo menos dois filtros orgânicos (UVA e UVB). A combinação da avobenzona (BMBM), filtro UVA, e do p--metoxicinamato de octila (EHMC), filtro UVB, é conhecida e muito utilizada em formulações manipulas e industrializadas, porém apresenta alteração na absorção espectral após exposição à radiação UV. A estratégia empregada com maior frequência para reduzir a instabilidade da combinação é baseada na adição de agentes fotoestabilizadores. A adição de substâncias naturais em formulações fotoprotetoras vem sendo explorada, especialmente o grupo dos flavonoides, como a rutina, que apresenta resultados positivos em relação à eficácia fotoprotetora. O objetivo principal desta pesquisa foi avaliar o potencial da rutina como substância fotoestabilizadora dos filtros EHMC e BMBM. Foram desenvolvidas formulações contendo os dois filtros associados ou não com rutina de acordo planejamento fatorial em três níveis. As formulações foram avaliadas quanto a eficácia fotoprotetora in vitro aplicadas em placas de PMMA e analisadas por espectrofotometria de refletância com esfera de integração antes e após a exposição à radiação UV. As interações moleculares dos filtros com a rutina foram avaliadas por 1H RMN, DSC, TG e análise qualitativa da supressão do estado energético singleto. A adição de rutina nas formulações contendo 5,0% (p/p) de BMBM e 10,0% (p/p) de EHMC promoveu elevação na conservação do FPS in vitro de 53,9% para 65,8 (0,1% de rutina) e 70,8% (1,0% de rutina). As curvas DSC e TG da rutina apresentaram alterações promovidas pela presença dos filtros BMBM e EHMC, indicando interação entre o flavonoide e os filtros. Após dose de 5760 J cm-2 de radiação UV o valor da razão trans/cis para o filtro EHMC em solução adicionado do filtro BMBM foi elevado de 5,5±0,1, sem adição de rutina, para 12,6±0,4, com adição da rutina. A análise qualitativa da supressão do estado singleto indicou que um dos mecanismos envolvidos na fotoestabilização dos filtros BMBM e EHMC é a supressão do estado energético singleto. Os resultados reportados neste estudo indicaram que a adição da rutina em formulações fotoprotetoras representa um caminho simples e efetivo para elevar a fotoestabilidade da combinação dos filtros BMBM e EHMC. A adição da rutina em formulações fotoprotetoras representa uma estratégia promissora, pois aliada a ação fotoestabilizadora, verificada nesse estudo, esse flavonoide possui propriedades antioxidante e quelante de metais que podem colaborar para o desenvolvimento de formulações fotoprotetoras de amplo espectro com aumento da segurança e eficácia

In order to promote broad-spectrum protection, most sunscreens are associated with at least two organic filters (UVA and UVB). The combination of avobenzone (BMBM), UVA filter, and octyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), UVB filter, is well known and widely used in industrial formulations and pharmaceutical compounding, but shows alteration in spectral absorption after UV radiation exposure. The most commonly used strategy to reduce the instability of the combination is based on the addition of photostabilizer agents. The addition of natural substances in sunscreen formulations has been explored, especially the group of flavonoids such as rutin, which shows positive results regarding photoprotective efficacy. The main objective of this research was to evaluate the potential of rutin as a photostabilizer substance of EHMC and BMBM. Formulations were developed containing the two filters associated or not with rutin, according to factorial design at three levels. The formulations were evaluated for in vitro photoprotective efficacy applied on PMMA plates and analyzed by spectrophotometer with integrating sphere reflectance before and after exposure to UV radiation. Molecular interactions of filters with rutin were evaluated by 1H NMR, DSC, TG and qualitative analysis of the suppression of singlet energy state. The addition of rutin in the formulations containing 5.0 % (w/w) BMBM and 10.0 % (w/w) EHMC promoted an increase in the preservation of in vitro SPF of 53.9% to 65.8 (0.1 % rutin) and 70.8 % (1.0% rutin). The DSC and TG curves of rutin showed changes promoted by the presence of BMBM and EHMC filters, indicating interaction between the flavonoid and filters. After 5760 J cm-2 of UV radiation the value of the trans/cis ratio for the EHMC filter added from the BMBM filter was increased from 5.5 ± 0.1 without addition of rutin, to 12.6 ± 0 4,with the addition of rutin. Qualitative analysis of the suppression of the singlet state indicated that one of the mechanisms involved in the photostabilization BMBM and EHMC filters is suppression of singlet excited state.The results reported in this study indicate that the addition of rutin in sunscreen formulations is a simple and effective way to increase the photostability of the combination of BMBM and EHMC. The addition of rutin in sunscreen formulations represents a promising strategy, for allied with the photostabilization action, observed in this study, this flavonoid has antioxidant and chelating properties of metals that can contribute to the development of broad-spectrum sunscreens formulations with increased safety and efficacy

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Emulsions are the most common form of skin care products. However, these systems may exhibit some instability. Therefore, when developing emulsions for topical application it is interesting to verify whether they have suitable physical and mechanical characteristics and further assess their stability. The aim of this work was to study the stability of emulsion systems, which varied in the proportion of the emulsifying agent cetearyl alcohol (and) sodium lauryl sulfate (and) sodium cetearyl sulfate (LSX), the nature of the oily phase (decyl oleate, cyclomethicone or dimethicone) and the presence or absence of pumice (5% w/w). While maintaining the samples at room temperature, rheology studies, texture analysis and microscopic observation of formulations with and without pumice were performed. Samples were also submitted to an accelerated stability study by centrifugation and to a thermal stress test. Through the testing, it was found that the amount of emulsifying agent affects the consistency and textural properties such as firmness and adhesiveness. So, formulations containing LSX (5% w/w) and decyl oleate or dimethicone as oily phase had a better consistency and remained stable with time, so exhibited the best features to be used for skin care products.

Emulsões são a forma de apresentação mais comum dos produtos para aplicação na pele. No entanto estes sistemas podem exibir alguma instabilidade. Por esta razão, quando do desenvolvimento de emulsões para aplicação tópica é importante verificar se estas apresentam propriedades físicas ou mecânicas adequadas e avaliar a sua estabilidade. O objetivo deste trabalho consistiu no estudo da estabilidade de emulsões, cujas variações entre elas foi a proporção de agente emulsificante álcool estearílico (mais) laurilsulfato de sódio (mais) estearilsulfato de sódio (LSX), a natureza da fase oleosa (decil oleato, ciclometicona ou dimeticona) e a presença ou ausência de pedra-pomes (5% m/m). Mantendo as amostras à mesma temperatura, realizaram-se o estudo da reologia, a análise de textura e observação microscópica das formulações com e sem pedra-pomes. Amostras foram, também, submetidas a estudo de estabilidade acelerada por centrifugação e a ensaio de estresse térmico. Através dos testes realizados, constatou-se que a quantidade de agente emulsificante influencia a consistência e as propriedades de textura, como a firmeza e a adesividade. As formulações contendo LSX (5% m/m) e decil oleato ou dimeticona como fase oleosa exibiram melhores caraterísticas como produtos para aplicação na pele, uma vez que estas formulações apresentaram menor firmeza e consistência e permaneceram estáveis com o tempo.

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Before marketing a cosmetic product, a series of biological assays, such as ocular irritation tests, must be conducted in order to prove that the product is safe. However, a few scientific articles mention the discussion and evolution of cosmetic products testing performed in the eyes area. The aim of this study was to review the available literature on the evolution of tests carried out with cosmetics, in the ocular area, as well as to describe the methodologies that have been used and that are currently accepted. In Brazil, tests performed on animals are still allowed. However, the international laws strongly recommend the use of alternative methods for evaluating the risk of cosmetic ingredients and products. Regulatory requirements involving the registration of these products also request safety support of them in human beings. To perform ocular tests in human beings, it is necessary to involve an ophthalmologist for conducting clinical protocols. These protocols signed by the expert physician are sent to the National Health Surveillance Agency in order to endorse the product manufacturer concerning its safety. The safety support of a cosmetic product is very important, taking into account that the consumer has free access to these products of widespread use in today's society.

Com o objetivo de comprovar que um produto cosmético é seguro, antes que este seja colocado no mercado, este deve passar por uma série de ensaios biológicos, que avaliem sua segurança, como, por exemplo, os testes de irritação ocular. Porém, poucos artigos científicos trazem a discussão e a evolução sobre os testes de produtos cosméticos realizados na área dos olhos. O objetivo desse trabalho foi realizar uma revisão bibliográfica sobre a evolução dos testes realizados com cosméticos, na região ocular, bem como descrever as metodologias que já foram utilizadas e as que são aceitas atualmente. No Brasil, são ainda permitidos testes em animais, entretanto, as legislações internacionais indicam fortemente a utilização de métodos alternativos para avaliação de risco de ingredientes e produtos cosméticos. As exigências regulatórias que envolvem o registro desses produtos solicitam também a comprovação de segurança destes produtos em serem humanos. Para a realização dos testes oculares em humanos, é necessário o envolvimento de um oftalmologista na condução de protocolos clínicos. Esses protocolos assinados pelo médico especialista são enviados à Agencia Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária, a fim de respaldar o fabricante do produto sobre a segurança do mesmo. A comprovação da segurança de um produto cosmético é bastante importante, considerando-se o livre acesso aos consumidores e o amplo uso desses produtos na sociedade atual.

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