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RESUMEN: El objetivo del siguiente estudio fue determinar y comparar los valores de composición corporal, parámetros bioeléctricos y fuerza de prensión manual de escaladores chilenos federados y recreativos. Participaron voluntariamente 13 escaladores chilenos, de los cuales 4 eran federados (25,75 ± 2,87 años) y 9 recreativos (22,33 ± 1,41 años). La composición corporal se evaluó por medio de un impedanciómetro bioeléctrico octopolar multifrecuencia, mientras que la fuerza de prensión manual se determinó con un dinamómetro manual. Si bien no hubo diferencias en las variables de composición corporal entre ambos grupos, el ángulo de fase del tronco fue superior en los federados en comparación a los recreativos (p = 0,011 [95 % IC = 1,10; 5,20]). Respecto a la fuerza de prensión manual, la fuerza relativa fue superior para los federados (p = 0,025 [95 % IC = 0,10; 0,22]), mientras que la diferencia de la fuerza entre la mano dominante y no dominante fue mayor para los recreativos (p = 0,012 [95 % IC = 1,60; 10,05]). Este es uno de los primeros estudios que explora las diferencias entre escaladores chilenos federados y recreativos. Los resultados sugieren una diferenciación a nivel de ángulo de fase y fuerza de prensión manual, lo cual debería corroborarse con futuros estudios.

SUMMARY: This study aimed to determine and compare the body composition, bioelectric parameters, and handgrip strength in federated and recreational Chilean climbers. Thirteen Chilean climbers voluntarily participated, being 4 federated (25.75 ± 2.87 years) and 9 recreational (22.33 ± 1.41 years). Body composition was measured using a multifrequency octopolar bioelectrical impedance meter, while handgrip strength was determined with a dynamometer. Although there were no statistical differences in the body composition variables between groups, the trunk phase angle was statistically higher in the federated compared to the recreational climbers (p = 0,011 [95 % CI = 1,10; 5,20]). Regarding handgrip strength, the relative strength was higher for federated (p = 0,025 [95 % CI = 0,10; 0,22]), while the difference in strength between dominant and non-dominant hand was higher for recreational climbers (p = 0,012 [95 % CI = 1,60; 10,05]). This study is one of the first that explore the differences between federated and recreational Chilean climbers. These results suggest a differentiation at the level of phase angle and handgrip strength, which should be corroborated in future studies.

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OBJECTIVE: To compare body composition estimations of field estimation methods: Durnin & Womersley anthropometry (DW-ANT), bioelectrical impedance analysis (BIA) and Deborah-Kerr anthropometry (DK-ANT) against dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA) in a male Chilean sport climbing sample. METHODS: 30 adult male climbers of different performance levels participated in the study. A DXA scan (Lunar Prodigy®) was used to determine fat mass, lean mass and total bone mineral content (BMC). Total muscle mass (MM, kg) was estimated through a validated prediction model. DW-ANT and BIA ("non-athletes" and "athletes" equations) were used to determinate fat mass percentage (FM %), while DK-ANT was utilized to estimate MM and BMC. RESULTS: A significant (p<0.01) inter-method difference was observed for all methods analyzed. When compared to DXA, DW-ANT and BIA underestimated FM% and DK-ANT overestimated MM and BMC (All p<0.01). The inter-method differences was lower for DW-ANT. DISCUSSION: We found that body composition estimation in climbers is highly method dependent. If DXA is not available, DW-ANT for FM% has a lower bias of estimation than BIA in young male Chilean climbers. For MM and BMC, further studies are needed to compare and estimate the DK-ANT bias level. For both methods, correction equations for specific climbing population should be considered.

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Human populations living at high altitude evolved a number of biological adjustments to cope with a challenging environment characterised especially by reduced oxygen availability and limited nutritional resources. This condition may also affect their gut microbiota composition. Here, we explored the impact of exposure to such selective pressures on human gut microbiota by considering different ethnic groups living at variable degrees of altitude: the high-altitude Sherpa and low-altitude Tamang populations from Nepal, the high-altitude Aymara population from Bolivia, as well as a low-altitude cohort of European ancestry, used as control. We thus observed microbial profiles common to the Sherpa and Aymara, but absent in the low-altitude cohorts, which may contribute to the achievement of adaptation to high-altitude lifestyle and nutritional conditions. The collected evidences suggest that microbial signatures associated to these rural populations may enhance metabolic functions able to supply essential compounds useful for the host to cope with high altitude-related physiological changes and energy demand. Therefore, these results add another valuable piece of the puzzle to the understanding of the beneficial effects of symbiosis between microbes and their human host even from an evolutionary perspective.

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Sport climbers frequently use campus board (CB) to improve their upper limb strength under similar conditions of high-difficulty sport climbing routes. The objective of this study was to assess the test-retest reliability of peak force and impulse measured using a CB instrumented with two load cells on starting holds. The same evaluator examined 22 climbers on two days with 48 h between the assessments. The participants performed five concentric lunges (CL) and five lunges with stretch-shortening cycle with 1 min intervals between repetitions and 10 min between exercises. All variables were associated with significant intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC) values (p = 0.001), and none variable showed systematic errors (p > 0.05). Peak force ICC was higher than 0.88, and the standard error of measurement (SEM%) was less than 5%. Impulse ICC for the CL was greater than 0.90, and the SEM% was less than 14%. We conclude that the kinetic variables measured using the CB were reliable. The ability of the hands to maintain contact with the holds (peak force) and the abilities of the arms and shoulders vertically move the centre of mass (impulse) should be taken into account by coaches on CB training prescription as well for further research.

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Frostbite is a common injury in high altitude medicine. Intravenous vasodilators have a proven efficacy and, recently, have been proposed as a safe outpatient treatment. Nevertheless, the lack of availability and consequently delayed application of this treatment option can result in poor clinical outcomes for patients. We present the case of a 60-year-old Chilean man with severe frostbite injuries suffered while climbing Mount Everest. The patient was initially given field treatment to the extent permitted by conditions and consensus guidelines. Unfortunately, advanced management was delayed, with iloprost administered 75 hours after the initial injury. The patient also underwent 5 days of hyperbaric and analgesic/antibiotic therapies. An early bone scan predicted a poor clinical outcome, and five of the patient's fingers, between both hands, were incompletely amputated. We present this case to exemplify the importance of advanced in-field management of frostbite injuries.

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Abstract The aim of this study is to establish somatotype and profile the anthropometric and biomotor characteristics of indoor rock climbers. Fourteen elite level male and ten recreational female Iranian indoor rock climbers completed a battery of tests. All anthropometric measurements were performed according to the recommendations of international standards for anthropometric assessment. Upper body strength and endurance were assessed by isometric tests. Explosive power and balance were also evaluated by Sargent jump and Star Excursion Balance Test (SEBT), respectively. Samples' somatotypes were calculated by the method of Heath and Carter. Pearson's correlation coefficient and partial correlations were calculated and stepwise multiple regression analyses were implemented to determine a set of best predictors of elite male climbers' ability. Shoulder width, body fat content, upper-body strength and endurance for females, showed the most correlation with the climbing ability (range: r = 0.46-0.7, p ≤ 0.05), while among the male samples, these correlations with the climbing ability were mostly between WHR, absolute and relative to body mass handgrip strength, SEBT performance and the left-hand digit ratio. The results of stepwise multiple regression revealed that the SEBT performance in the posterior direction of right foot stance and Upper Extremity Girth Index are able to explain 62% of the variance of climbing ability. It is likely that decreasing the fat mass has no direct impact on the climbers' performance. Also, SEBT performance is able to predict 35% of climbing performance. Hence, it seems balance exercises could be effective in improvement of climbing performance.

Resumo O objetivo do estudo foi estabelecer o somatotipo, o perfil antropométrico e neuromotor de escaladores indoor. Quatorze atletas do sexo masculino de elite e 10 atletas recreacionais do sexo feminino do Irã da modalidade escalada indoor participaram da pesquisa. Todas as medidas antropométricas foram coletas conforme padronizações internacionais. Força e resistência dos membros superiores foram avaliadas por teste isométrico. Força explosiva e equilíbrio foram avaliados pelos testes Sargent jump e Star Excursion Balance (SEBT), respectivamente. O somatotipo foi calculado pelo método Heath e Carter. O coeficiente de correlação de Pearson, correlações parciais e a análise de regressão múltipla foram utilizados. Largura do ombro, percentual de gordura corporal, força e resistência dos membros superiores para as mulheres apresentaram correlação positiva com a capacidade de escalar (ranque: r = 0,46-0,70, p ? 0,05). Para os homens, a habilidade de escalar foi associada com a razão cintura estatura, força de preensão manual absoluta e relativa à massa corporal, ao equilíbrio e a proporção digital da mão esquerda. O desempenho no SEBT e o índice de circunferência dos membros superiores tiveram o poder de explicar 62% na variação da capacidade de escalar. É provável que diminuir a massa de gordura não tenha impacto direto no desempenho dos escaladores. Além disso, o desempenho do SEBT é capaz de prever 35% do desempenho de escalada. Portanto, parece que os exercícios de equilíbrio podem ser eficazes na melhoria do desempenho de escalada.

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Abstract The identification of physiological transition thresholds (TT) is commonly used for prescribing and evaluating the performance of endurance athletes; however, the methods need further investigation in mountain runner athletes. The aim of the present review was to analyze the different methods used to determine TT in mountain runners. After analyzing 1,176 articles found in different databases, 4 articles that presented a relationship with the theme were selected. Varied proposals were observed, in which the surveys searched for physical and/or cardiorespiratory performance, as well as the effect of acclimatization and training at different altitudes in mountain runners. All studies used spirometry to identify the anaerobic threshold through visual methods and a relative mean intensity in thresholds occurred at 80 - 90% of VO2max. The results of studies analyzed evidenced the limited use of methodologies in the identification of exercises for training evaluation and prescription, as well as the use of effective and low-cost alternative methods to determine these thresholds in mountain runners.

Resumo A identificação dos limiares de transição fisiológica (LT) é comumente utilizada para prescrição e avaliação do desempenho de atletas de endurance, no entanto, os métodos precisam de maiores investigações em atletas corredores de montanhas. O objetivo da presente revisão foi analisar os diferentes métodos utilizados para a determinação dos LT em corredores de montanhas. Após a análise de 1176 artigos encontrados em diferentes bases de dados, foram selecionados 4 artigos que apresentaram relação com o tema. Pode-se observar propostas variadas, nas quais as pesquisas buscaram investigar o desempenho físico e/ou cardiorrespiratório, bem como o efeito da aclimatização e treinamento em diferentes altitudes nos corredores de montanhas. Todos os artigos utilizaram a espirometria para a identificação do limiar anaeróbio, através de métodos visuais e a intensidade média relativa nos limiares ocorreu próxima a valores de 80 - 90% VO2máx. Os resultados dos estudos analisados evidenciam o uso limitado de metodologias na identificação dos LT para a avaliação e prescrição de treinamento, bem como a utilização de métodos alternativos eficazes e de baixo custo para a determinação destes limares em atletas corredores de montanhas.

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O objetivo deste estudo foi investigar a relação entre o montanhismo e a conservação ambiental na cidade do RJ, mais especificamente, no complexo do Pão-de-Açúcar. A metodologia utilizada na pesquisa foi a observação participante e a análise de conteúdo, por meio de entrevistas com os interlocutores. O que se pode perceber, por meio dos discursos dos montanhistas ocasionais, foi uma busca pelo mínimo impacto e uma acusação da massificação dos usos dos espaços como responsável pelos impactos ambientais. Estes discursos foram relacionados, como modos de legitimização da prática, através da categoria "estilo de vida" que é extensão das preocupações ambientais para outras esferas da vida dos montanhistas.

The objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between mountaineering and environmental impact in the city of Rio de Janeiro, more specifically, in the Sugar Loaf complex. The methodology applied in the research was the participant observation and the content analysis, through interviews with the interlocutors. What can be perceived in the speeches of the occasional mountaineers was the search for minimum impact and the accusation that the mass use is responsible for the environmental impacts. These speeches are related as kinds of practice legitimation, through the category "lifestyle", a extension of environmental concern to other spheres of life of the climbers.

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BACKGROUND: Blood oxygen saturation (SpO 2 ) is frequently measured to determine acclimatization status in high-altitude travellers. However, little is known about nocturnal time course of SpO 2 (SpO 2N ), but alterations in SpO 2N might be practically relevant as well. To this end, we describe the time-course of SpO 2N in mountaineers at high altitude. METHODS: SpO 2N was continuously measured in ten male mountaineers during a three-week expedition in Peru (3,050-6,354m). Average SpO 2N of the first (SpO 2N1 ) and second half (SpO 2N2 ) of an individual's sleep duration was calculated from 2h intervals of uninterrupted sleep. Heart rate oscillations and sleep dairies were used to exclude periods of wakefulness. SpO 2 was also measured at rest in the morning. RESULTS: SpO 2N significantly increased from SpO 2N1 to SpO 2N2 . The magnitude of this increase (ΔSpO 2 ) was reduced with time spent at altitude. On night 1 (3,050m) SpO 2 increased from 83.4% (N1) to 86.3% (N2). At the same location on night 21, SpO 2 increased from 88.3% to 90.1%, which is a relative change of 4.7% and 2.0%, respectively. This pattern of increase in SpO 2N was perturbed when individual acclimatization was poor or altitude was extreme (5630m). SpO 2N was significantly lower than SpO 2 at rest in the morning. CONCLUSIONS: This study is the first to demonstrate an increase of SpO 2 during the night in mountaineers at high altitude (3,050-6,354m) with high consistency between and within subjects. The magnitude of ΔSpO 2N decreased as acclimatization improved, suggesting that these changes in ΔSpO 2 between nights might be a valuable indicator of individual acclimatization. In addition, the failure of any increase in SpO 2N during the night might indicate insufficient acclimatization. Even though underlying mechanisms for the nocturnal increase remain unclear, the timing of SpO 2N measurement is obviously of utmost importance for its interpretation. Finally our study illustrates the detailed effects of ventilatory acclimatization over several weeks.

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Irarrázaval, Sebastián, Claudio Allard, Juan Campodónico, Druso Pérez, Pablo Strobel, Luis Vásquez, Inés Urquiaga, Guadalupe Echeverría, and Federico Leighton. Oxidative stress in acute hypobaric hypoxia. High Alt Med Biol. 18:128-134, 2017.-The effects of acute hypobaric hypoxia endured by mountaineers were studied, specifically as evidenced by acute mountain sickness (AMS) and oxidative stress damage. Ten male volunteers were exposed to acute hypobaric hypoxia, and AMS was evaluated through arterial oxygen saturation (SaO2), cardiac rate, and the Lake Louise Score (LLS). Oxidative stress was determined through blood profile tests performed 24 hours before and after high-altitude exposure, assessing the oxidative damage and antioxidant profiles. Dietary habits were assessed using the Chilean Mediterranean Diet Index. During ascent (i.e., first 8 hours), all volunteers presented AMS (LLS ≥3 points), as manifested by a median LLS increment of four points, a 15 bpm cardiac rate, and 17% decrease in SaO2. Additionally, plasma lipid oxidative damage increased after the expedition, as evaluated through malondialdehyde, which was directly correlated with the LLS (R2 = 0.720, p = 0.003) and inversely correlated with SaO2 (R2 = 0.436; p = 0.035) at a high altitude. Preascent carbonyl levels were inversely correlated to SaO2 (R2 = 0.490; p = 0.008) and directly correlated to cardiac rate (R2 = 0.225, p = 0.016) at a high altitude. Moreover, dietary habits were inversely correlated with increased carbonyls during the expedition (R2 = 0.436; p = 0.047). In conclusion, acute hypobaric hypoxia induced AMS and an increment in oxidative stress markers 24 hours after altitude exposure in the volunteers. Furthermore, oxidative stress damage was related to AMS severity. Finally, volunteers with closer adherence to a Mediterranean diet presented a lower increase in oxidative damage during ascent, reflecting the potential preventive role of diet against AMS.

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