RESUMO
BACKGROUND: Acid straightener products are widely used, and it can cause changes in the hair shaft properties. The pH value of these products established by ANVISA (Brazil's National Health Surveillance Agency) as secure is above 2.0. However, the industries are interested in working at lower pH values in order to increase the straightening effect. Unfortunately, there are a lot of products in the market with pH value under the permitted. OBJECTIVE: Analyze two different pH values (1.0 and 2.0) of acid straightener formulation and the influence of this difference in the hair shaft properties. In order to provide information to professionals as cosmetologists, dermatologists, and hairdressers. METHODS: Combing and colorimetric analyses, tensile strength, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), environmental scanning electron microscope (ESEM), and tryptophan content. RESULTS: The tresses treated at pH 1.0 had a better result in the straightening capacity, improving the combing test in 59.4%, while those at pH 2.0, only in 33.0% compared with virgin hair. However, the tensile strength, at pH 1.0 decreased by 16.0% and 9.0% to the pH 2.0. In addition, the tryptophan content was lower in the tresses treated with formulation at pH 1.0. The DSC analysis showed impairment in the straightened tresses. The images by ESEM, indicated a possible formation of a film around the fiber. CONCLUSIONS: It was possible to conclude that the pH value interferes in the hair shaft properties. Tresses treated with pH 1.0 had more modifications than tresses treated with pH 2.0.
Assuntos
Preparações para Cabelo/farmacologia , Cabelo/efeitos dos fármacos , Concentração de Íons de Hidrogênio , Varredura Diferencial de Calorimetria , Cabelo/química , Cabelo/ultraestrutura , Preparações para Cabelo/química , Preparações para Cabelo/normas , Humanos , Microscopia Eletrônica de Varredura , Resistência à Tração/efeitos dos fármacos , Triptofano/análiseRESUMO
The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the efficacy of a multifunctional hair care formulation-Hair BB Cream-containing botanical extracts of Camellia sinensis, Vitis vinifera, and Euterpe orleacea, vitamins, amino acids, UV filters, and silicones for hair treatment and prevention of UV damages. The in vitro antioxidant activity of the botanical extracts was evaluated using the DPPH and chemiluminescence methods. A tensile test, combability, shine, and image analysis were performed to evaluate the efficacy of the formulation. To evaluate protection against UV damage, the hair strands were submitted to UV radiation without and with the application of the Hair BB Cream. The results showed that the application of the Hair BB Cream promoted a reduction in combability values and an increase in break stress and gloss values. After exposure to UV radiation, the hair treated with the BB Cream formulation showed no difference in the mechanical properties test, indicating protection against UV damage. In conclusion, the multifunctional formulation showed several benefits of single product acting in the prevention of UV damage and the treatment of hair damage. Thus, the Hair BB Cream proposed can be suggested as an effective multifunctional hair care product.
Assuntos
Preparações para Cabelo/farmacologia , Cabelo , Extratos Vegetais/análise , Protetores contra Radiação/farmacologia , Raios Ultravioleta , Vitaminas/análise , Antioxidantes/farmacologia , Compostos de Bifenilo/química , Preparações para Cabelo/química , Humanos , Luminescência , Picratos/química , Exposição à Radiação , Protetores contra Radiação/química , Silicones/farmacologia , Resistência à TraçãoRESUMO
BACKGROUND: Hair coloring is broadly used by women and men either to change their natural hair color or to delay the onset of gray hair. Oxidative dyes may damage the hair, as chemical and physical processes are required to convert the fiber structure and, consequently, alterations in its mechanical and surface properties. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective effect of silanetriol (and) Panthenol, PEG-12 dimethicone, and hydrolyzed silk (and) hydrolyzed milk protein (and) lactose as conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye by protein loss, combability, and breaking strength. METHODS: In this research, we analyzed the untreated hair (sample I) and the effect of oxidative hair dye emulsions, with or without conditioner agents (sample II) silanetriol (and) Panthenol (sample III), PEG-12 dimethicone (sample IV), and hydrolyzed silk (and) hydrolyzed milk protein (and) lactose (sample V) on Caucasian hair. The hair samples were submitted to protein loss quantification, breaking strength, and combing analysis. RESULTS: For protein loss, the results were: IIa = Va > IVb > IIIc > Id . For the breaking strength: Ie = IIe = IIIe = IVe = Ve . For the combing analysis for wet and dry hair, the results were, respectively: IIa > IIIb = IVb > Vc > Id and IIA > IIIb = Vb > IV c = Ic . Data classified by different letters presented statistically significant alterations, α = 5, P ≤ . 05, n = 15. CONCLUSIONS: Based on these results, the incorporation of conditioner agents into emulsion blond color decreased the damage caused by the coloring process.
Assuntos
Tinturas para Cabelo/farmacologia , Preparações para Cabelo/farmacologia , Cabelo/efeitos dos fármacos , Oxidantes/farmacologia , Dimetilpolisiloxanos/farmacologia , Emulsões , Humanos , Lactose/farmacologia , Proteínas do Leite/farmacologia , Ácido Pantotênico/análogos & derivados , Ácido Pantotênico/farmacologia , Polietilenoglicóis/farmacologia , Seda/farmacologia , Técnicas de Cultura de TecidosRESUMO
BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Hair straighteners are very popular around the world, although they can cause great damage to the hair. Thus, the characterization of the mechanical properties of curly hair using advanced techniques is very important to clarify how hair straighteners act on hair fibers and to contribute to the development of effective products. On this basis, we chose two nonconventional hair straighteners (formaldehyde and glyoxylic acid) to investigate how hair straightening treatments affect the mechanical properties of curly hair. METHODS: The mechanical properties of curly hair were evaluated using a tensile test, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) measurements, scanning electronic microscopy (SEM), a torsion modulus, dynamic vapor sorption (DVS), and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis. RESULTS: The techniques used effectively helped the understanding of the influence of nonconventional hair straighteners on hair properties. For the break stress and the break extension tests, formaldehyde showed a marked decrease in these parameters, with great hair damage. Glyoxylic acid had a slight effect compared to formaldehyde treatment. Both treatments showed an increase in shear modulus, a decrease in water sorption and damage to the hair surface. CONCLUSIONS: A combination of the techniques used in this study permitted a better understanding of nonconventional hair straightener treatments and also supported the choice of the better treatment, considering a good relationship between efficacy and safety. Thus, it is very important to determine the properties of hair for the development of cosmetics used to improve the beauty of curly hair.
Assuntos
Preparações para Cabelo/farmacologia , Cabelo/fisiologia , Desinfetantes/farmacologia , Formaldeído/farmacologia , Glioxilatos/farmacologia , Cabelo/ultraestrutura , Humanos , Microscopia Eletrônica de Varredura , Resistência à TraçãoRESUMO
BACKGROUND: Hair chemical treatments, such as dyeing and straightening products, are known to cause damage that can be assessed by protein loss. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this study was to evaluate the hair protein loss caused by combined chemical treatments (dye and relaxer) using the validated bicinchoninic acid (BCA) method. Three kinds of straighteners, based on ammonium thioglycolate, guanidine hydroxide and sodium hydroxide, were evaluated and the least harmful combination indicated. METHODS: Caucasian virgin dark brown hair tresses were treated with developed natural brown color oxidative hair dyeing and/or straightening commercial products based on ammonium thioglycolate, sodium hydroxide, or guanidine hydroxide. Protein loss quantification was assessed by the validated BCA method which has several advantages for quantifying protein loss in chemically treated hair. RESULTS: When both treatments (straightening and dyeing) were combined, a higher negative effect was observed, particularly for dyed hair treated with sodium hydroxide. In this case, a 356% increase in protein loss relative to virgin hair was observed and 208% in relation to only dyed hair. The combination of dying and relaxers based on ammonium thioglycolate or guanidine hydroxide caused a small increase in protein loss, suggesting that these straightening products could be the best alternatives for individuals wishing to combine both treatments. CONCLUSIONS: These results indicated that when application of both types of products is desired, ammonium thioglycolate or guanidine hydroxide should be chosen for the straightening process.
Assuntos
Tinturas para Cabelo/farmacologia , Preparações para Cabelo/farmacologia , Cabelo/efeitos dos fármacos , Proteínas/metabolismo , Cabelo/metabolismo , Tinturas para Cabelo/química , Preparações para Cabelo/química , HumanosRESUMO
Brazilian keratin treatments are widely available products that are used by women all over the world to straighten hair. Marketers of these products claim that the keratin treatments render naturally curly hair more manageable and frizz-free while enhancing color and shine, giving the hair a healthier appearance. Although widely used, there have been virtually no reports of adverse side effects. Unfortunately, many of the products that are applied by salon professionals contain formaldehyde or its derivatives and are being marketed as safe.
Assuntos
Barbearia , Formaldeído/efeitos adversos , Preparações para Cabelo/farmacologia , Cabelo/efeitos dos fármacos , Queratinas Específicas do Cabelo/farmacologia , Exposição Ocupacional/prevenção & controle , População Negra , Formaldeído/análise , Preparações para Cabelo/efeitos adversos , Preparações para Cabelo/química , Humanos , Queratinas Específicas do Cabelo/efeitos adversosRESUMO
Our goal was to study the effect of Gp4G on skin tissues and unravel its intracellular action mechanisms. The effects of Gp4G formulation, a liposomic solution of Artemia salina extract, on several epidermal, depmal, and hair follicle structures were quantified. A 50% increase in hair length and a 30% increase in the number of papilla cells were explained by the changes in the telogen/anagen hair follicle phases. Increasing skin blood vessels and fibroblast activation modified collagen arrangement in dermal tissues. Imunohistochemical staining revealed expressive increases of versican (VER) deposition in the treated animals (68%). Hela and fibroblast cells were used as in vitro models. Gp4G enters both cell lines, with a hyperbolic saturation profile inducing an increase in the viabilities of Hela and fibroblast cells. Intracellular ATP and other nucleotides were quantified in Hela cells showing a 38% increase in intracellular ATP concentration and increases in the intracellular concentration of tri- , di- , and monophosphate nucleosides, changing the usual quasi-equilibrium state of nucleotide concentrations. We propose that this change in nucleotide equilibrium affects several biochemical pathways and explains the cell and tissue activations observed experimentally.
Assuntos
Fosfatos de Dinucleosídeos/farmacologia , Folículo Piloso/efeitos dos fármacos , Preparações para Cabelo/farmacologia , Animais , Artemia , Células Epiteliais/efeitos dos fármacos , Fibroblastos/efeitos dos fármacos , Cabelo/efeitos dos fármacos , Cabelo/crescimento & desenvolvimento , Folículo Piloso/crescimento & desenvolvimento , Células HeLa/efeitos dos fármacos , Humanos , Masculino , Camundongos , Modelos Animais , Ratos , Ratos Wistar , Pele/citologia , Pele/efeitos dos fármacosRESUMO
BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: The continuous advancement in cosmetic science has led to an increasing demand for the development of non-invasive, reliable scientific techniques directed toward claim substantiation, which is of utmost relevance, to obtain data regarding the efficacy and safety of cosmetic products. METHODS: In this work, we used the optical coherence tomography (OCT) technique to produce in vitro transversal section-images of human hair. We also compared the OCT signal before and after chemical treatment with an 18% w/w ammonium thioglycolate solution. RESULTS: The mean diameter of the medulla was 29+/-7 microm and the hair diameter was 122+/-16 microm in our samples of standard Afro-ethnic hair. A three-dimensional (3D) image was constructed starting from 601 cross-sectional images (slices). Each slice was taken in steps of 6.0 microm at eight frames per second, and the entire 3D image was constructed in 60 s. CONCLUSION: It was possible to identify, using the A-scan protocol, the principal structures: the cuticle, cortex and medulla. After chemical treatment, it was not possible to identify the main structures of hair fiber due to index matching promoted by deleterious action of the chemical agent.
Assuntos
Preparações para Cabelo/farmacologia , Cabelo/efeitos dos fármacos , Cabelo/ultraestrutura , Tomografia de Coerência Óptica/métodos , População Negra , Humanos , Imageamento Tridimensional/instrumentação , Imageamento Tridimensional/métodos , Técnicas In Vitro , Tioglicolatos/farmacologia , Tomografia de Coerência Óptica/instrumentaçãoRESUMO
This study evaluated the performance of five oils and three butters extracted from Brazilian plants with different fatty chain composition on hair mechanical properties, split end formation, combing analysis and gloss measurements. Oil treatment reduced the combing force percentage for wet conditions. However, the hair treated with butters showed poor combing. Except for ucuúba butter, oils and butters used in this work had generally no influence on hair tensile properties. In general, hair treated with oils showed a significant gloss increase and a decrease for split end formation. The fatty acid composition of the oils and butters tested showed an effect on the physicochemical properties of hair.
Assuntos
Ácidos Graxos/química , Preparações para Cabelo/química , Cabelo/química , Óleos de Plantas/química , Ácidos Graxos/farmacologia , Cabelo/efeitos dos fármacos , Preparações para Cabelo/farmacologia , Humanos , Óleos de Plantas/farmacologia , Resistência à TraçãoRESUMO
Straightening is a chemical process by which excessively curly hair is straightened in an irreversible way. Generally, products are formulated as emulsions with high pH value (9.0-12.0), which, after applied on hair, cause considerable damage, making it dry and fragile. This research work evaluated the protective effect of lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone, cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-12 dimethicone cross-polymer, jojoba oil, and aqua (and) cystine bis-PG propyl silanetriol, as conditioning agents, on Afro-ethnic hair locks treated with thioglycolate-based straightening emulsions by protein loss, combability, and traction to rupture. Standard Afro-ethnic hair locks were prepared following a protocol for straightening emulsion application. Considering the assays performed, the addition of conditioning agents to the straightening emulsion with ammonium thioglycolate benefited the hair fiber, thus diminishing protein loss, protecting the hair thread, and improving resistance to breakage. Jojoba oil and lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone were the conditioning agents that presented the best results. Straightening emulsions with ammonium thioglycolate containing aqua (and) cystine bis-PG propyl silanetriol and cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-12 dimethicone cross-polymer were the ones that provided higher breakage resistance of the thread.